My Cycladic Summer!

Summers in Greece are always amazing! This summer I visited 8 islands–Tinos, Paros, Anti-Paros, Santorini, Ios, Anafi and Folegandros from  Cycladic group  and Asypalaia, one of the Dodecanese. Four of these were new to me, thus bringing my total to 42 Greek islands that I have visited so far of the 227 which are inhabited. Greece may be a small country in square miles, but it has endless beautiful destinations, each with its own character and charm.

I began by guiding a small group for 5 days in Tinos and 5 days in Paros. Tinos is always amazing! It is a serene, warm and friendly island with amazing food and gorgeous views. I was there for the first time in 2019 and have written a blog post here.

Paros is a very popular island that is big enough to also have quiet corners, like Drios where we stayed. I had visited the island over 30 years ago, and although it has been greatly developed since then, it is still absolutely beautiful. There is something for everyone on the island–and plenty of great day trip options to other islands. Our daytrip was to Antiparos, an island made famous by its celebrity residents such as Tom Hanks and friends. Of course, we did not spot him, but the island has a very lovely town (called Chora on most islands) and beaches.

Then two of my closest friends, Afrodite and Athina, met me on Paros and we continued to Ios by way of Santorini. I have a small Fiat Panda 4×4 in Greece that I always have with me and is absolutely perfect for island hopping. Afrodite had never visited Santorini, so we took the morning ferry from Paros-Santorini and the evening ferry to Ios, giving us 6-7 hours to explore, which is enough to get a good taste while not getting too overwhelmed by the crowds. We drove off the ferry and I took them to Akrotiri–the very impressive bronze age city, complete with apartment buildings, buried under volcanic ash and excavated (archaeologists say just 10% has been uncovered!). It is the little known Pompeii of Greece–and just a short walk to traditional cave restaurants, where there is also a pier where one can take the boat to white, red and black beach. I have been on the boat tour, so I waited at my favorite Santorini taverna–Cave of Nicolaos–while Afrodite and Athina saw the beaches and amazing volcanic rock formations on Santorini’s quiet backside. When they returned, we had a delicious lunch–and Afrodite joined the owner and his daughters in dancing to traditional island music (ta nisiotika). Then we went to Oia–the famous cliffside town and instagram photo spot after 5pm when the cruise ship crowds had left and finally back to the port for the ferry to Ios, which is 2 hours away. It was a perfect day on Santorini!​

Next we went to Ios, the famous “party” island with beautiful beaches, which I had never been to. This was the most disappointing of all the islands and ranks among my least favorite of all I have ever visited. Although the beaches are beautiful with golden sand and we did find one lovely taverna with very good food on the opposite side of the island, they were all a long distance by car from the Chora–or town. I had heard that it had changed from being the hippy, party island of days past, but to me it seemed a change for the worse. The town was full of very drunk 16-25 year-olds passed out on the winding alleys of the old town and with cars on the main road through the town zipping by so quickly, one had to be very cautious when crossing the road to get to the old town.  And all was quite expensive for Greek standards–and perhaps worst of all (at least for me!) the food, while expensive, was not anything to get excited about. I do not think I will ever return.

Then on to one of my new favorites–Anafi! From my perspective, it a perfect island with  charming, authentic, amazing food, friendly people, and lovely quiet beaches. The Chora is perched high with breathtaking views. Fish tavernas are owned by fishermen who bring their fresh catch every day.
Other tavernas offer AMAZING goat–goat on the islands is so delicious, tender and flavorful & naturally seasoned as they drink sea water–with live music. A seaside taverna that has its own vegetable garden and situated next to a gorgeous sandy beach with crystal clear water. All the locals were super friendly and extremely reasonable prices everywhere! This is an island I cannot wait to return to!

From Anafi, we left on the morning ferry and spent the day on Folegandros, where I had never been, before returning to Piraeus (Athens)on the evening ferry, where we had a cabin. Folegandros is a lovely island with one of the most beautiful Choras of all the Cyclades. There is an old town surrounded by Venetian fortress walls and two village squares with large plane trees, winding alleys with bright bougainvilleas contrasting the impeccable whitewashed village buildings.

I thought my island travels had finished for the summer, but when I called a friend who lives on Astypalaia to say hello, she told me to come visit! And since a horrible heatwave was predicted (and where I stay in Rafina does not have AC &  usually never needs it), I decided to take her up on her sweet offer! Her house also does not have AC, but a fan sufficed in the heatwave, which can hardly be felt on the islands, where there is always a breeze–and strong winds many times and the sea is always so refreshing. Astypalaia is also one of my favorite islands –this was my 4th time there. It has a lovely Chora crowned by a Venetian fortress–and many, many lovely beaches –you can even find some completely private! And the food, what can I say but wow….the very best goat I’ve had anywhere and other dishes also delicious –and all extremely reasonably priced! Astypalia has a place in my heart!